Cuff-making machine



a Ma 18, 1926. 1,585,061

0. A. WHEELER CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filei May 10, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 1 0014/ /i W M r 0. A. WHEELER CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 1o, 1925 s Sheet s-Shee't 2 May 18 1926.

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0. A. WHEELER CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 10, 1925 8 ecs-Shee-c 5 May 18 192s;

OLA. WHEE LER CUFF MAKING MACHINE for:

May 18,1926. 1,585,061

- O. A. WHE ELER "CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 10, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 n (Jen/5r.-

May 18 1926. v

O. A. WHEELER CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 10, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 May 18 1926.

O. A. WHEELER CUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 10, 1925 8 Sheets -Sheet '7 O. A. WHEELER QUFF MAKING MACHINE Filed May 10, 1923 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 Patented May 18, with.

METER? A'thhll' OMAR A. WHEELER, OF PORTLAND, OREGON, ASSIGNOB T0 \VHEELEB- AUTOMATIC MACHINE COMPANY, OF PORTLAND, OREGON.

CUFF-MAKING MACHINE.

Application filed May 10, 1923. Serial No. 638,151.

My invention relates to my previously in vented. machine for making cuffs automatically as described in the Letters Patent of the United States granted to me June 3, 1919, NO. 1305510.

This application is filed as a continuation in part of the application for Letters Patent filed by applicant January 27, 1920, Serial No. 354,478, entitled Cuff making machine, forthe purpose of protecting by Letters Patent the invention set forth in said previously filed application and applicants later improvements on said invention.

The object of present invention is to replace those devices in my said machine provided in the latter for arranging and holding the. cuff material'preparatory to sewing by other devices suitable for the making of the present for shirts. The type referred to is that diagrammatically shown with respect to the arrangement ofthe plies by Fig. 13 of the accompanying drawings, and with respect to the formation of thecuif by the fragmentary perspective Fig. E both figures referred to appearing on Sheet 7 In short this type of cuff consists of an outer blank or piece 80 cut to the desired shape of the cuif and an innerblank or piece 81, these pieces being laid in the trays of the carriage and thence become arranged in the work holder of my machine as shown in Fig. A. These pieces are then fastened together by a seam'82 extending all around on three sides. These. pieces are then turned inside out and are further fastened together by marginal stitches 83, the stitches 82 being made while the plies of the cuff are gripped in the work holder and the stitches 83 being made while the cuff is held there by the fuller bars of .my machine having been removed. These details are hereafter more fully described.

The outer piece 80 has an inward edge fold as 8 1 which is formed in the work holder and the inner piece 81 has a projecting lip as 85. This projecting lip is stitched to the inner face of the shirt sleeve 86 as diagrammatically shown at 8'? in Fig. C. The cuff plies are then arranged as shown by Fig. D and finally the cuff is finished by a second seam indicated by the dotted standard type of attached cuffsfold on the forward edge of the blank car ried by one of said trays, means'for .advancmg one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower verti-' cally movable parts, means for moving such parts from each other, means for moving the carriage forward while the upper and lower parts of the work-holder are spaced from each other, means for gripping the forward edges of the blanks, means for producing a fullnessin one of said blanks while in the work-holder, means for moving said work-holder parts together after the trays work-holder for the'sewin'g of theedges of the blanks together, means for withdrawing said fullness-producing means after the blanks have been clamped by the workholder, the operation of said devices being timed relatively to each other.

These devices and associated mechanisms are illustrated by the remaining figures of the accompanying drawings, viz:

Fig. 1, Sheet 1, represents a perspective view, partly in section, of those parts of my improved machine to which. my present lnventlon relates:

Fig. 1 Sheet 1, is a partial perspective view of the work-holder of my machine as seen from the rear end, thus the right end with respect to Fig. 1, said figure being taken approximately in the direction of the arrow 1 in Fig. 1;

2, Sheet 2, is a longitudinal sectional detail of the upper part of the carriage, and

have been removed from between them, thereby holding the blanks in the of the trays carrying the blanks from which the cuff is to be made: the carriage being shown in its initial position, said figure being taken in the direction of the arrow 2 in Fig. 1;

Fig. 2, Sheet 5, is a. perspective view of the two trays and a fragment of'the earriage; the upper tray in this figure has been moved horizontally beyond its initial position, to completely uncover the lower tray;

Fig. 2 Sheet 5, is another longitudinal sectional detail of the upper portion of the carriage and of said trays; and this figure also shows in part the devices provided for forming the fold 84 shown in Figs. A to E; the devices as here shown are positioned ready to form said fold;

Fig. 2, Sheet 5, shows asectional detail of the lower tray, (g) and the adjacent portion of the carriage;

Fig. 3, Sheet 2, is a fragmentary. longitudinal, central section through the trays and workholder of my machine with the carriage in its advanced position, thus having introduced the trays into the work-holder;

Fig. at, Sheet 2, is a sectional detail of the work-holder of my machine; this figure illustrating the further operation of devices of the work-holder;

Fig. 4 Sheet 2, is a fragmentary sectional detail of the lower part of the workholder illustrating the action of the clamp carried by such part;

Fig. 4 Sheet 2, shows a fragmentary detail of the clamp in the lower partof the work-holder Fig. 4, Sheet 2, is a fragmentary detail of the reciprocable cross-head of the lower part of the work-holder;

Fig. 5, Sheet 2, is a larger scaled detail of the work-holder, showing the upper and the lower parts thereof as brought together and clamping the blanks placed in the work-holder by the trays, ready for sewing; the blanks are seen spaced apart to give the desired fullness, and the fuller is seen between the blanks;

Fig. 5. Sheet 2, is a detail of the said upper blank-carrying tray and of the upper part of the work-holder, and illustrates the action of the means provided for lifting the forward edge of the blank in the upper tray, so as to position such edge for being clamped by the clamp of the upper part of the workholder;

Fig. 6, Sheet 1, shows, diagrammatically, part of the mechanism by which the workholder is opened and closed;

Fig. 7, Sheet 3, is a rear, sectional elevation of the work-holder, as viewed in the direction of the arrow 1* in Fig. 1;

Fig. 8, Sheet 3, is a fragmental plan section of the work-holder. taken approx-Innately on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7 and illustrates the action of the fuller-member;

Fig. 9, Sheet 3. shows a plan of the lower box-like part of the work-holder, the fuller member being seen as inserted in said part and expanded to form the fullness in the lower blank, which is shown in section by 80 in Figs. A, B, C, D and E on Sheet 7:

Fig. 10, Sheet 3, shows a fragmentary detail, in rear elevation, of the fuller-member, as viewed in the direction of the a row 10 in Fig. 9;

Fig. 11, Sheet 6, shows a portion of the upper part of the carriage and ot' the trays taken substantially in the direction of the arrow 2 in Fig. 1; this view illustrating the initial position of the devices provided for forming the fold 8st (see Figs. A to E) in the blank carried by the lower tray;

Fig. 12, Sheet 6, shows a fragmentary detail of the means for operating said devices of Fig. 11 which are here also shown in their initial position;

Fig. 13, Sheet 6, illustrates the next phase in the action of such means shown in Fig. 12;

Fi 14, Sheet 6, illustrates the positions assumed by the ironing bar and the presser which form said fold 81. said view being taken on the same line as Fig. 11;

Fig. 15, Sheet 6, shows the final positions of the devices forming said fold. said view being taken on the same line as Fig. 11;

Fig. 16, Sheet 6, is a detail of the parts pointed to by the arrow 16 in Fig. 12 looking in the direction indicated by the arrow;

Figs. 17, 17, 17", 17 and 17, Sheet show details of the construction and operation of the clamp of the upper part of the work-holder Fig. 18, Sheet 1, shows a fragment of the cuff produced, illustrating its appearance after having been turned right side out;

Fig. 19, Sheet 4, shows a diagrammatic top view of the lower part of the workholder, and of the fuller member, said view being taken substantially on the same line asFig. S;

Fig. 20, Sheet 4, is a diagrammatic, vertical section thru the workholder. similar to Figs. 3 and it except that this section illustrates the position of the parts after the fuller member has been withdrawn, in advance of the insertion of the mechanism for turning the cufif right side out;

Figs. 21 and 21. Sheet 4, are further details of the ironing bar and devices for forming said told 84;

Fig. 22, Sheet/7, shows a sectional detail. in perspective, of the lower tray of the carriage and associated devices;

Fig. 23, Sheet 8, shows a side elevation of my machine looking at the same side Shown in Fig. l: and

Fig. 21, Sheet 8. is a transverse s-ziaztional view through the fuller member shown in connection with the workholder in Fig. 1*, this figure. being taken substantially along the line 2-l24: in that figure. Figs. A, B C, D, and E, Sheet 7, diagrammatically show the steps in the formation of a cuff, progressively.

My machine comprises a base a supporting pieces 6, the opposed faces of which are adapted as at (Z to support a reciprocable carriage Motion is imparted to the carriage by a rod fastened at one end to a lug e of the carriage, see Fig. 3, and

' having operative connection with a cannlocated within the base; the cam being adapted to reciprocate the carriage, as hereinafter described.

The function of the carriage is to arrange the'blanks of which the cuff is to be made, and to introduce them into the work-hold er. These blanks are placed in the two trays f and 9 provided on the carriage; the lower tray 9 carrying the ply which is to form the outer piece or facing represented by 80 in Fig. A, and the upper tray carrying the ply which forms the inner piece 81 in Fig. A. Note the Figures A to D represent the cuff after having been turned right side out, while all the preliminary work is done by my machine before the cuff is turned; hence the ply parts appear reversed. If the cuff is to be made with a lining either or both of the trays may carry the lining piece or pieces. 1

The upper tray f is rigid on the carriage while the lower tray 9 is automatically moved forward under the upper tray during the forward travel of the carriage see Figs. 2 and 3.

The portion 0 of the carriage is provided. with lugs in which is i-ournaled a shaft On one end of this shaft is fixeda pinion m, and on each end is fixed a pinion m Thepinion m meshes with the rack Z2 provided on one of the pieces 6 of the frame,

and the pinions m mesh with; the rack faces 2' of the undersidcs of the side bars h, h of the carriage k The lower tray 9 is provided with arms g, g, which are hinged at their ends as at la between said side bars of the carriage k See Fig. 2 The lower tray 9 is slidably held by its side bars h in the guideways Z of the carriage portion 0 The pinions m and m are so proportioned that with the movement of the carriage forward the lower tray 9 will be moved at such speed as finally to be positioned directly under the upper tray f as shown in Fig. 3. In the lower tray 9 a U-shaped piece 0 is loosely held by two pins 0 see Fig. 2 said piece tends to lift the blank 80 so that it can be gripped by the sides of the work-holder parts.

In the upper tray f is secured a flexible and rockable plate 29, provided with arms 79 as shown in Fig. 1, by which it is fastened duce the pieces or blanks carried by these trays, properly into the work-holder, as hereinafter described.

As is shown in Fig. 2 a and u are spring arms secured to the frame h of the lower tray and are provided with heads u, the upper parts of which are adapted to extend over the cross rib g of the lower tray 9' for bearing on the bottom of the latter, and in so doing holding the blank placed in this tray in place (see Fig. 2). The carriage portion 0 is provided with grooves 50 for the heads M of the spring arms at to move in when the lower tray is moved forward. When the lower tray is in its initial position said heads of the spring arms at will rest on collars j provided on'the shaft j as shown in Fig. 1, thereby raising said heads as shown by dotted outline in Fig. 2, so as to permit the placing of a blank in the lower tray. When the lower tray ismoved forward the heads a of the spring arms u, a, will drop from said collars 9' into said grooves 50, and thus bear on and hold the blank in place. During the continued forward travel of the carriage, the spring arms a will pass over the transverse cavity 0 of the carriage portion 0 and finally climb on the surface as shown in Fig. 8, thereby lifting the heads of the spring arms u, u and thus releasing the blank from the lower tray.

o, *0 are springs bearing on and tending to depress the lower tray g. See Fig. 1.

The fold 84 in the blank 80 carried by the lower tray is formed by the following devices:

An ironing bar q, and a presser r are carried by depressible rods 8, s over the depression c of the carriage portion 0 The upper ends of the rods 8, s are reduced as at s to provide shoulders for carrying sleeves 8 provided with heads at their upper ends. On the sleeves s are slidably mounted sleeves 8 which are integral parts of the ironing bar as more clearly shown by Fig. 21. On the sleeves s are mounted split collars 5 shown in Fig. 21. The sleeves s and the collars are provided with flanges or shoulders between which. are coilsprings 8 see Fig. 11. Said heads of the sleeves s are provided with lugs s", by which are rotatably supported the ends r of the presser r. The journal ends of the latter extend beyond the lugs s and have rigidly mounted thereon crank-arms 4 (see Fig. 12) which are connected by links If and I? with the bell-crank 3. The bell-crank 3 is pivoted at 117 on the rods s.

The fold 841 of the blank 80 is formed in the lower tray 9 while in its initial position. First the bell-crank 2 is actuated to depress the rods 8, 8, part way from their position indicated in Fig. 11 to the position indicated in Fig. 14, thereby bringing the ironing bar 9 down on the forward edge of the blank 80. The ironing bar 9' will now rest on the surfaces 90 of the lower tray, and hence has no further motion, but the rods 8. a will be pulled down still further by the bell-crank 2.. and simultaneously the bell-crank 3 is rocked so as to move the links 2 and 2" up and rock the crank arms 1, and therewith the presser 1'. into its position in Fig. 14:, and then move said links down again, thereby bending the projecting edge of the blank 80 down: then swing the presser 9'- to the left and causing it to bend the said projecting edge back and produce the fold 84, as shown in Fig. 15. The bell crank 2*: is now so operated as to raise the rods 8, s and cause the lip 91 of the presser r to press the fold 8-1. The ironing rod is electrically heated by means inserted in the hole 9 of which heating means and 9, Fig. 1. indicate the terminals for connecting to a source of electricity.

The fold 841 of the blank 80 having been formed the bell-cranks 2" and 3 are next so operated as to permit the presser r to swing outward away from the foot 92 of the ironing bar (7, and then ironing bar and presser resume their initial positions as shown in Fig. 11, thereby clearing the lower tray so that it may be moved forward. That is to say, the carriage c. in being moved forward, effects the rotation of the pinion m, on the shaft of which are mounted the pinions m as mentioned: and the latter engaging with the rack faces 2' on the under sides of the side arm h, h of the frame [(3 cause the forward movement of the lower tray g.

The bell cranks 2" and 3 are operated relatively with each other. to effect said operations, by the cam. mechanisms hereinafter described.

Upon the trays having been moved into the work holder the V-shaped ridge 7? on the plate 6 of the upper part of the workholder will bear on the edge 72" of the plate 7) thereby tilting the latter on its fulcrum rib 32 into its position in Fig. 5. thus lifting the forward edge of said plate and the blank lying on it. in position for the forward edge of the blank to be clamped by the clamp of the upper part of the workholder as will be later explained.

The work holder is shown in its open position in Fig. 3, and in its closed position in Fig. 4:. It consists of an upper part (5,

and a lower part 7. 1t functions to hold the blanks of the cuff together during the sewing operation, and in such position that the blank carried by the lower tray may be given the required fullness by the fullermember, in order to permit the inverting of the cuff as hereinafter described.

The upper part ('3 of the work holder consists of a plate 6 secured to a piece 6 which is carried by rods tr sliding in bearings, 6" supported from the portion 93 of the frame 91. See Figs. 1 and (3. ()n the frame portion 93 are journal bearings 95. one of which is shown in Fig. 1. the other being broken away said bearings rotatably supporting a rock shaft 8 carrying rigid crank arms 11 operatively connected with the upper ends 9 of the rods (3. Thus the l'OCl-ling of the rock shaft 8 causes the raisin; and lowering of the upper part 6 of the workholder. The rock shaft 8 is rocked by a crank arm 10. on the latter. as shown in Figs. 1 and t5: the cranl-I-arm 10 being connected by a link 11 to one end of a bellcrank lever Eli) on the rock shaft 12; the bell crank lever 38 connected by a link 37. with a crank arm 36 on the rock shaft 36.

The lower part 7 of the work holder consists of a box-like part carried by the crosshead 1" reciprocating in the guides 96. mounted on the frame of my machine. On the crank shaft 12". on which the lever 3h is mounted. which operates the upper part of the workholdcr. is a crank-arm 12. see Figs. 1 and 1. connected by a link 13 with the cross head 7. Thus the rocking of the rock-shaft 12 causes the s -Jnchromms operation of the upper and lower parts of the work-holder.

lVhile the work-holder is still in its open position the blanks carried by the lower and upper trays are held in place by clamps 16 and 17, .as illustrated by Figs. 3 and 4.

On the piece (5 (see Fig. 7) are mounted brackets 27 in which is journaled a shaft 27, on which the clamp 16 is rockanly mounted. See details Figs. 17 to 17 inclusive. The clamp 16 is provided adjacent its middle with angular portions 16 having a web 1b provided with an elongated hole 16 thru which the shaft 27 extends, thus permitting this clamp both a rocking and lineal movement, as illustrated by Fig. 17'. The angular portions 16 are provided with slots 16" in the webs 16 see Fig. 1?. Stirrups 39 extend through said slots 16". their lower ends encompass the shaft 27. and springs at) normally hold the stirrups 1-19 up. See Fig. 17.

On shaft 27 are provided double ended cams 28 located under the webs 16 of the portions 16 of the clamp 16, so one end of such cams will strike agai st s' aid webs 16 during the rocking of the shaft 27. Thus when the shaft 27 is rocked in one direction the cam 28 will swing the clamp 16 in its position shown by dotted outline in Fig.

17,when rocked in the opposite direction 6 of the upper part 6 of workholder; and

when the cam is in neutral position, that is not performing either action, then the reaction of springs 40 will throw this clamp into its releasing position as shown by Fig. 17.

The shaft 27 is rocked by the rotation of the crank arm 18 on the shaft 18 (see Figs. 1 and 23) to which is connected the .rod 19 connecte-d to a crank lug of the rock shaft 20 connected by an arm 21 to a rod 22 with the crank arm 23, on the rock shaft 24 journaled in brackets 24 mounted on the piece 6 which carries at its lower end a segmental bevel pinion 25 meshing with a similar pinion 26 on the rock shaft27.

The rock shaft 18 is rocked by the arm 18 which forms a double-ended crank with 'arm18; the member 18 of the latter being operatively engaged with the cam 116 as shown in Fig. 23.

The devices operating the lower clamp 17, carried by the lower part 7 of the workholder consist of the following:

The frame of the machine includes vertical guides 96, see Figs. 1 and 7, in which slides a cross head 7" provided with journal bearings 69 (see also Fig. 4 in which is journaled a rock or crank shaft 35, provided with cams 35 at its ends. The clamp 17 consists of a bar made with a lip 76 and provided at its ends with portions 97 having flanges 98. Said portions 97 are made with elongated holes 17 b to receive the crank shaft 35, the clamp 17 pivoting on the latter.

The reciprocable cross-head 7 is provided at each of its ends with a lug and stud 41 the flanges 98 of the side portions 17 of the clamp 17 are provided with similar devices 99, see Fig. 7; and between such clevices are secured springs 41. The crank shaft 35 has an arm 100 connected by a link 34 to a crank-arm 33 on the crank-shaft 32 which is rocked by the meshing segmental pinions 31 (see Fig. 1) one of which is on a rock shaft provided with an arm 29 connected by rods 19 and 19 with the crank-arm 18, which also actuates the upper clamp 16 as already stated.

"When the crank shaft is rotated in one direction the clamp 17 will be thrown in its releasing position as shown by Fig. 3 and when rotatedin the opposite direction this clamp will be thrown in its clamping position, as shown by Fig. 4.

Normally the piece 0, fastened in the lower tray 9, rests on the bottom of the latter and so remains until the trays f and 9 have been introduced into the work holder (consisting of parts 6 and 7, see Fig. 3) by the forward movement of the carriage. The fingers 0 of the piece 0 will ride on the sides of the box-like low-er part 7 of the workholder, while the plate 9 on which the blank lies will drop so as to rest its forward end on the bottom of the part 7. It will be noted from Fig. 22 that the lower tray 9 has slots 9 cut away at its sides so that the side wall portions of the lower work-holder may project thru these slots, not interfering with the drop of the tray plate but causing the fingers 0 of the piece 0 to ride on the sides of the lower workholder. In this way is produced a sag in the blank carried by the lower tray, spacing it at its middle part from the blank carried by the upper tray so that the hook 17 can grip the forward edge of the blank.

The rockable plate 19 functions to lift the forward edge of the blank carried by the upper tray into such position that it can be gripped by the clamp 16 carried by the upper part 6 of the work-holder; see Figs. 7

3 and 5 the required rocking of the plate p being effected by the moving of the upper part (6) of the work-holder toward the tray 7, into their positions in Fig. 4; the resulting movement of the plate 29 being illustrated by Fig. 5.

I In order to hold the blanks firmly in place in the workholder, while the edges of the blanks are sewed together, the plate 6 of the upper part of the workholder is provided on three sides with a rib 77 and the upper faces of the corresponding three sides of the lower part of the workholder are provided with a groove 7 8 to receive said rib; thus when the two parts of the workholder are brought together they will firmly clamp between them, the edges of the blanks. The sewing of said edges is accomplished by devices comprising the rack a, shown in Fig. 1, said devices being similar to the ones described with reference to the same operation in my said previous patent, and because such devices do not constitute a part of my present invention, I refer to my said patent for a description of said devices. i

The hollow shaft 60 is provided with a crank arm 63 connected by a link 62 to a bellcrank 61 carried by a rock-shaft 103; the bell-crank 61 being operatively engaged with the cam 104, (as shown in Fig. 23.) On the upper end of the post 66 is mounted a crank- .arm 53 connected by a link 52, as shown at 62 (Fig. 1,) to a crank arm 51, as shown at 52", said crank arm being carriedby a rock shaft 50, having at its lower end a crank-arm l rod 65, are rigid crank arms and 55 approximately positioned at right angles to each other as shown in Fig. 8, the latter crank-arms being connected by a link 56.

The fuller 12 consists of the parts shown in Figs. 7, 8, 9 and 10.

On the piece 6 of the upper work holder are provided two bracket arms 102, having vertical hinge pins 66, 66. On the latter are supported the posts 66 and 66 which have both arcuate and vertical movement. The said posts are connected at their upper ends by a rod 65, the ends of which are adapted to permit said posts to be rotated, as shown at 66" and 66 in Fig. 7. The rod is connected by arms 6st, and 6& with arms 59, 59 which are part of the hollow rock shaft 60, see also F ig. 1, which is rotatably mounted on the rock shaft 8 as shown in the latter figure. The lower ends of the posts 66, 66 are provided with arms 57 and 57 (see also Fig. 1).

13 and 43 are the extension arms of the fuller 42. They are connected by a bar 4 1 so that one is relatively slidable on the other in order that these arms may be extended, that is, placed in their position in Figs. 8 and 9, and moved again apart as shown in Fig. 9. The extension arms -13, 13 are provided with brackets 101 and 101, respectively, by which they are supported on the crank arms 57 and 57, as more clearly shown in Fig. 1. The brackets 101 and 101 have mounted on them other brackets 107 and 108 respectively; the bracket 107 is provided with a tube 45, and the bracket 108 is pro vided with a rod 16 which slides in Said tube 45. On the pins 58 and 58 are mounted sleeves 110 as shown in Fig. 24; which sleeves are integral parts of the arms 57 and 57; and on the upper ends of the pins 58 and 58 are threaded nuts 109, in this way holding the brackets 106 firmly extended. By rotating the hollow shafts 66 and 66 the arms 57 and 57 of the fuller are swung in and out as are the extension arms 43 and 43 which enter the hollow of the lower box-like workholder part; and when introduced in said lower workholder part the extension arms 13 and 43 are projected laterally as shown in Fig. 9, thereby producing the required fullness in the blank carried by the lower tray. hen the latter step has been performed the fuller is withdrawn from the workholder, the seam 82 is sewn and gripping members 67, 68 and 67, 68 are thrown into action as diagrammatically illus trated in Fig. 19 for the purpose of removing the cuff and turning the same right side out, this step and the devices performing the same being fully described in my said preceding patent.

The several working parts of my machine are connected to a prime mover so as to operate synchronously; such cooperating means being shown sufficiently by Figs. 1 and 23 in connection with the other views to enable any skilled mechanic to build my machine.

The bracket arms 101, 101 carrying the extension arms 43 and i3 ot' the fuller are further held in alinement by a guide arm 121, a rigid part of the bracket- 101, and having a sliding connection with the bracket arm 101*.

The successive steps performed in the operation of my machine are as follows:

r-lssuming that a blank has been placed in each of the trays f and g. the first step is the forming of the fold 8% in the blank carried by the lower tray 9.

Recapitnlating in part the devices performing this step: The rods 8, and a are at the near side connected at their lower ends to the bell crank 2". The said lower ends are preferably connected by a cross rod 117. The lower end of the rod 8 is connected to the bell-crank 2", rigid on arock shaft 118. On the far side of the latter is carried a cranlearm 2 which is connected to the rod See Fig. 1.

On the ends of said cross-rod 11? are mounted bell-cranks 3; said bell cranks are connected to the lower ends of the rods 5, t. the latter operating the presser as above described. The bell-cranks 3-3 are yicldingly connected by rods 111 with the springs 112, and with levers 120 mounted on rock shafts 113, one arm of each being engaged with the cam 10%.

The told 81 having been formed as above described, and the ironing bar g, and therewith the presser r having been lifted clear of the lower tray, the carriage 0 is moved forward. The carriage is rcciprocated by the rod 6 which has a cam arm 115 engaged with the cam 116. See Fig. 23.

During the forward movement of the carriage the lower tray is relatively moved forward so as to become alined with the upper tray as above described; the trays being moved in this wise into the work holder. After the trays have entered the workholder, the upper and lower parts 6 and T of the latter are moved slightly together: thereby bringing the upper part 6 of the workholder to bear on the plate 1) carried by the upper tray, and rocking such plate thereby lifting the forward edge of the blank carried by the upper, and placing such edge in position for being seized by the clamp 16 carried by the upper part of the w n'kholder.

Siniultaneously the movement upward of the lower part 7 of the workholder places said box like lower part in position for receiving the blank carried by the lower tray so that the forward edge of such lower blank may be clamped by the clamp 17 carried by the lower part T of the \wn'k iolder.

Furthern'iore. simultaneous with said movements of the workholder parts, the

rtaoei work-holder parts, together cause the blank to be gripped by this tongue and groove arrangement and thus the parts are held" against any relative movement. Fuller member can then be withdrawn and-the seam 82 may be sewn.

The described movements of the parts of the work-holder and of the fuller are caused by the following devices:

The upper and lower work-holder parts are actuated by the rock shaft 12 which is rocked by rod 87 connected to boil crank.

36 which is mounted on a rock shaft 36, see Figs. 8 and 23, one arm of the bell crank 36 being engaged'with the cam 104.

The fuller is operated thru the medium of the rod 62, as above described, and the latter rod is connected to bell-crank 61, mounted on rock shaft 103, one arm of the said bell crank 61 being engaged with the cam 104:. See Figs. 1 and 28.

The further operations of my machine are merely repeating the steps of my said preceding patent; the cam 11-2 shown in 23 actuating the movement oi the cult turning devices, included in the mechanism last referred to, and of which cul'l' turning mechanism the parts, 67, 67? and 68, shown in Fig. 19 are a part.

Motionis imparted to the gear 123 from a prime mover, and the pinion 12 i meshing with said gear operates the cam 116. The cam 10 1 is carried by the shaft 11 5 of the gear 123.

I claim: I

1. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such. trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a told on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a work-holder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage "forward thereby to insert the trays bet-ween the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means on the workholder parts for gripping the blanks respectively, means for retracting the carriage and therewith the trays, means for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the workholder, the latter means being inserted into the work-holder in time with the withdrawal of said carriage, means for moving said work-holder parts together thereby holding the blanks in the work-holder while sewing their edges together, means for withdrawing said fullness-producing means after the blanks have been clamped by the workholder.

2. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a told on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically.

3. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a fold on the forward edge or the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such' parts towardsand from each other.

4. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes,one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a told on the forward edge ofthe blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower verti-- cally movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and .trom each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other.

5. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in'spacod apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a told on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a work-holder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means on the work-h0lder parts for gripping the blanks respectively.

6. In amachine of the'character described,

a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a fold on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means on the work-holder parts for gripping the blanks respectively, means for retracting the carriage and therewith the trays.

7. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a fold on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means on the workholder parts for gripping the blanks respectively, means for retracting the carriage and therewith the trays, means for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the work-holder, the latter means being inserted into the work holder in time with the withdrawal of said carriage.

S. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a fold on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means on the work-holder parts for gripping the blanks respectively, means for retracting the carriage and therewith the trays, means for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the work-hold er, the latter means being inserted into the work-holder in time with the withdrawal of said carriage, means for moving said workholder parts together thereby holding the blanks in the work-holder while sewing their edges together.

9. In a machine of the character described, a carriage, trays, supported by the carriage, for holding blanks, such trays lying in spaced apart horizontal planes, one tray being in advance of the other, means for forming a fold on the forward edge of the blank carried by one of said trays, means for advancing one tray relatively to the other, thereby to aline the trays vertically, a workholder comprising upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means for moving the carriage forward thereby to insert the trays between the upper and lower parts of the work-holder while spaced apart from each other, means for retracting the carriage and therewith the trays, means for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the work-holder, the latter means being inserted into the work holder in time with the withdrawal of said carriage, means for moving said work-holder parts together therebv holding the blanks in the work-hold er while sewing their edges together.

10. In a machine of the character described, a work-holder provided with means for holding the blanks spaced from each other and a fuller for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the workholder, means carried by said workholder for hold ing said blanks in position with the fullness so .produced and other means for withdrawing said fuller, the latter timed to act when said fullness holding means engage said blanks.

11. In a. machine of the character dcscribed, comprising a workholder composed of upper and lower vertically movable parts. means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means on the workholder paits for gripping the blanks and holding them spaced apart, and a fuller for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the workholder, and a rib provided on one of said workholder parts and 1 corresponding groove on the other of said parts to hold said blanks in position with the fullness so produced and to permit the withdrawal of said fuller without affecting said fullness.

12. In a machine of the character described, comprising a workholder composed of upper and lower vertically movable parts, means for moving such parts towards and from each other, means on the workholder parts for gripping the blanks and holding them spaced apart, and a fuller for producing fullness in one of said blanks while in the workholder, and a V-shaped rib provided on one of said workholder parts and a corresponding groove on the other of said parts to hold said blanks in position with the fullness so produced and to permit the withdrawal of said fuller without affecting said fullness.

13. In a machine of the character described a work holder comprising upper and lower parts, means for moving said parts relatively towards and from each other, a releasable clamp on said upper Work holder part, a blank holding tray arranged to enter said workl'iolder prior to the closing of said Workholder, said tray having a rockable plate in the bottom thereof adapted to be engaged by the downward movement of the upper workholder part so as to lift the blank carried thereby into position for engagement by the clamp upon the upper Workholder.

14. In a machine of the character described, a Workholder comprising upper and lower parts, means for moving said parts relatively towards and from each other, means for inserting blanks to be operated upon into such workholder, said workholder parts having opposed perimetric flanges substantially encompassing the same, and cooperating rib and groove engaging portions upon the opposed faces of the said flanges, adapted to hold the blanks against displace ment in said workholder after the same has been closed.

OMAR A. lVl-IEELER. 

